After lunch, I was determined to find the Academia...classic Alex move and I walked around the thing at least 3 times before actually seeing the entrance (to be fair, it wasn't like the Louvre or anything) but this quest DID result in an unplanned discovery, which I'll explain first - San Marco.
(the front was covered by scaffolding when I was there, but here is a google images picture of what the front of the church looks like)
San Marco is technically a complex - a church and monastery combined (the square is also San Marco Square). Outside, the atmosphere is busy, rushed, and loud. People are running to buses, zig-zagging across the square with their heads buried in maps...but all of this disappears once you walk inside San Marco. A deep and reverent calm settles down and silence reigns in the serene courtyard of the monastery.
And all those frescoes on the walls? Those are all done by none other than Fra Angelico!
Inside, all of the monks' rooms are open to look inside...each is painted with a scene from the Bible, also by Fra Angelico. The rooms were spartan - white walls and a small painting with a tiny window for sunlight.
(this is the hallway)
My favorite fresco was Angelico's Annunciation, which greets you as soon as you walk up the stairs to the rooms.
("annunciation" is the moment the angel Gabriel tells Mary she will be the mother of Christ - the moment is almost always marked by the presence of a lily - symbol of Mary's purity - and a dove - symbolizing the act of conception - but an angel kneeling in front of a woman often dressed in a blue cloak is also a huge giveaway)
What was really cool about the monastery is that Savonarola had his study/room here! This was the guy who, when Lorenzo de Medici died in 1492, took it upon himself to rule Florence as republic, guided by the iron fist of theology and religion. He was a champion of church reform, criticizing Pope Alexander VI's corrupt clerical practices mercilessly, and initiated things like the "bonfire of vanities"in a show of piousness, virtue, and commitment to God (they burned lewd pictures, gaming tables, anything un-godly really...women threw their costliest fashion ornaments into the fire according to accounts). The pope excommunicated him but this didn't stop the rebellious monk...he continued being a thorn in the side of the papacy on until 1498, when Florentines voted the Medici back into power. He was convicted of having preached falsely and eventually sentenced to hanging. Although short-lived, his influence was recognized and he had a cult following for some time after his death.
and this was his desk! I love things like this
Cosimo de Medici also had a retreat in this monastery...here was his room!
(those stairs lead to his private chapel)
Last but not least fun fact about this place - it was a mecca for manuscript illumination back in the day. There was a small display on how these were made - the colors below are the original kinds of powders made from rocks/minerals etc that the monks would have used in the 1200s.
Soooo after this, I did eventually make it to the Academia! I have to say though, the only real highlight for me was this guy...
After this, I decided it was too nice a day to spend in churches and museum, so I went on a walk towards the hills surrounding Florence. I had no idea how far I would end up walking but it was so beautiful! Not much to report except the views, so I'll just make this a visual tour...
(that's Florence in the way background)
I ended up at a convent/church...popped inside for a quick prayer
and then watched the sun set over Florence.
lovely
that's meee!
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